
NJ
Monthly Gaucho Steak Review
Montclair FOOD: Argentine grilled meats, empanadas, Ceviches AMBIENCE: Relaxed, warm. Crimson walls, salsa and tango
in the air SERVICE: Friendly, unrushed WINE LIST: BYO Dinner for two: $80
Restaurant concepts often migrate to the suburbs after
establishing themselves in the city. Gaucho Steak is an
unusual example of the process operating in reverse.
In November, veteran New York chefs Jorge Rodriguez and
Alex Garcia debuted their Argentine-style steak house on
the eclectic Restaurant Row that is Bloomfield Avenue in
Montclair. The food smartly combines two bankable
trends: steak houses and Latin. Now they are about to
open two satellites: Gaucho Steak Quick Grill in
Manhattan’s Hell’s Kitchen, and Gaucho Steak Latin
Bistro in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
Rodriguez, once an aspiring percussionist, left his
native Buenos Aires for Woodstock in 1969 and stayed in
the U.S., becoming a chef and exchanging his wooden
drumsticks for the edible kind. Garcia, who was born in
Cuba and raised in Puerto Rico, graduated from the
Culinary Institute of America. Along with Cuban-American
celebrity chef Douglas Rodriguez (no relation), the duo
kick-started the Nuevo Latino craze at Douglas’s Yuca in
Miami and Patria in Manhattan. More recently, Jorge and
Garcia collaborated on Calle Ocho, a trendy Havana-esque
haunt on Manhattan’s Upper West Side.
The pair first came to Montclair as consultants a few
years ago to help develop the menu for Cuban Pete’s, a
joint that has proven immensely popular (if continuingly
notorious for its owner’s arrests for serving wine
without a license). They were taken with Montclair, and
when the original home of Indigo Smoke became available
for rent, the two created Gaucho Steak.
Meat is the main event, but fried calamari, hardly an
Argentinean staple, makes an irresistible appetizer.
Winkingly called chicharron (which are fried pork
rinds), the crisp rings are coated in a caressing honey
sauce enhanced with black sesame, ginger, and Szechuan
five-spice pepper.
The chefs have a sweet tooth, but they apply it
judiciously. Fall-apart-tender costillas (short ribs)
are lavished with an apricot glaze that’s a sort of
grown-up’s duck sauce. Flash-grilled camarones, hefty
shrimp, are swabbed with a tantalizing nectar of honey,
soy, and tingling Peruvian peppers. A sweet corn tamal
is drizzled with an earthy pumpkin-basil paste, and
oxtail empanadas perch in an agreeably syrupy,
rosemary-tinged Malbec wine reduction.
Gaucho Steak’s name and brawny entrées pay homage to
South American cowboys and their traditional mixed-grill
barbecue, asado. The beef is free-range and grass-fed
from Uruguay (Argentinean meat is currently banned from
importation into the U.S.). Grass-fed beef is redder,
leaner, and more intensely flavored than corn-fed.
Grilling produces a charry, campfire taste that’s
especially pronounced in the restaurant’s marvelously
tender sweetbreads and thick, lightly marbled ribeye,
served off the bone.
Should native Porteños (Buenos Aireans) drop by, they
would likely order entraña. Called skirt steak in the
U.S. (or “Philadelphia steak” in South Jersey), entraña
is the classic Argentinean cut. Gaucho Steak’s
ruby-juiced, profoundly meaty version is dusted with
coarse Argentinean sal parrillera (grilling salt) and
grilled over gas heat, not open flame. An optional flick
of table salt and a splash of chimichurri—the
parsley-garlic paste as ubiquitous in Argentina as
ketchup is here—is all you need to complete a classic
steak-eating experience. Well, that and a side dish
called gaucho potatoes—French fries tossed with chopped
garlic, sea salt, and parsley.
There is more to Gaucho Steak than asado. Delicious
braised pork shank, slow-roasted like osso buco, is
served in a pool of white wine sauce with a purée of
corn and hominy. The paella is no Ironbound-style
battered crockpot, but a dainty, ceramic-topped metal
platter. Lift the lid and behold succulent seafood,
chicken, and chorizo, which are cooked separately, then
placed on a bed of firm Valencian Cebolla rice in garlic
butter. However, a salmon fillet, requested “sushi
inside,” was overcooked and overwhelmed with Cajun
blackening powder.
For dessert, the runaway winner is Porteño panqueques,
buttery crêpes bursting with dulce de leche, the
tongue-caressing Argentinean milk caramel that has
become a trendy upmarket ice cream flavor. Dulce de
leche also subtly flavors a good crème brûlée, but,
personally, I don’t want just a hint of this
compulsively edible flavor. I want heaps of the real
thing.— Karen Tina Harrison
Gaucho Steak, 340 Bloomfield Avenue, Montclair
(973-233-1520). Dinner: Sunday and Tuesday through
Thursday, 5 to 10 pm; Friday, Saturday, 5 to 11:30 pm.
American Express, Visa, MasterCard are accepted.
Wheelchair access manageable. |
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GAUCHO STEAK is an earthy Argentinean beef
emporium on Montclair's restaurant row
specializing in the traditional cooking of South
American cowboys -- strapping portions of asados
(grilled meats). An inviting array of Nuevo Pan
Latin dishes supplements the meaty eats at the
six-month-old storefront.
DÉCOR: The cowboy-chic dining room was formerly
home to Indigo Smoke (relocated a few doors
away). The warm, rustic and refined milieu is
reflected in such detailing as wrought iron
candelabrum, lariats and boleadoras
(leather-bound balls used by cattlemen) hung on
exposed brick walls. Leather-like coverings
drape tables that seat 60. Wood paneling, velvet
draperies and hard wood floors complete the
handsome ensemble.
STAFF: Friendly, helpful, easy-going.
HOUSE SPECIALTIES: High-quality, free range,
grass-fed beef from Uruguay. (Argentinean beef
is currently banned from importation to the
United States.) Sizable slabs of entrana (skirt
steak, $17; our favorite, the leanest and most
full-flavored); gaucho ( a juicy, boneless
rib-eye, served code-red rare, as requested,
$22); tira (short rib steak, $15, tough and
fatty) and filete (good beef tenderloin, $22)
were slow-grilled on an angled metal gas-heat
contraption (visible in the open kitchen in the
rear) that allows the fat to drip off and
accompanied by a tangy chimichurri
(herb-garlic-vinegar paste). We found the
grass-fed (as opposed to corn-fed) beef chewy
and tough (which is literally the nature of the
beast) and probably an acquired taste. On the
side ($5): A-plus gaucho potatoes, crisp fries
tossed with garlic, sea salt and parsley; creamy
Swiss chard; spicy/sweet mashed sweet potatoes.
BUT DON'T MISS: Freshly baked olive oil bread
partnered with a delectable white bean spread,
followed by excellent appetizers: a flaky
empanada ($7) brimming with sweet corn and goat
cheese; a vibrant salad starring sweet, juicy
chunks of red and yellow beets in a roasted
garlic vinaigrette topped in an ethereal goat
cheese "foam;" a terrific tamal filled with
sweet masa (cornmeal dough) lined in a squiggle
of creamy goat cheese over a ragout of shrimp
enchildado (a spunky tomato sauce). And no-meat
entrees such as an excellent vegetarian paella
($16).
ROOM FOR DESSERT? Absolutely. The panqueques
(crepes) filled with dulce de leche (milky
caramel); ice cream-like dulce de leche crème
brulee and arroz con leche (creamy rice pudding,
all $7) were all topnotch.
-- Reviewed by S.J. Gintzler, who may be reached
at globalgour@aol.com.
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